The day’s sun was inviting and warm, but the wind angrily howled through the mountains on Jan. 28 as Alex Ratson and a few pals cruised down the Icefields Parkway, from Banff to Jasper, as they embarked on a weeklong ice climbing adventure.
Along their journey, the trio of climbers slowed down to have a good look at Polar Circus, a notorious multi-pitch ice climb within Banff National Park’s boundaries, about 100 kilometres north of Lake Louise on the Icefields Parkway.
“It was notably warmer than the previous days and in total sarcasm we joked that it would be a great day to climb Polar Circus,” Ratson said.
It was shortly after that comment that they noticed a parked car at the route’s trailhead.
“We stopped to see if we could spot them with my camera, but before I could fully switch lenses I heard the words ‘avalanche, get back in the car,’” Ratson said. “I had just enough time to look up as the whole gully that holds Polar Circus slid down with enough mass that we quickly drove down the road to ensure we were out of its path.
“Getting back out of the van we could feel the blast of the slide and our guts start turning as we started to realize there was a good chance we just witnessed two fellow climbers take the last swings of their tools.”
To the group’s surprise, the only visible climber was still hanging on, but just moments after the first avalanche had settled a second one hit, pouring over the top pitch.
“I began to shoot the climbers to help map their progress in case of another avalanche, and a subsequent search and rescue mission.”
When the snow from the second slide settled, some how the climber was still hanging on.
For Quentin Lindfield Roberts and Nick Black, experienced climbers based out of Kelowna, Jan. 28 started out like any other mountainous adventure. After a good night’s sleep at Beauty Creek, the two set out before sunrise hoping to climb all 2,200 metres of Polar Circus, a route neither of them had completed before.
“Everything was calm all morning. The snowpacks seemed stable and nothing had changed too much,” Lindfield Roberts said. “The temperature was a bit warmer, but it was still well below zero so we felt comfortable.”
As the morning light popped over the mountains Lindfield Roberts said they were having fun and making good time, as they got closer to the peak.
“We were both really stoked, but as I got out of the gully I noticed how windy it had become. That should have been an eye-opener, but I didn’t think much of it and kept climbing,” said Lindfield Roberts, adding that his partner, Black, was lower down, almost hidden by an overhanging curtain of ice.
A few minutes later, Lindfield Roberts heard the unmistakable sound of an avalanche.
“It was so loud and the whole mountain shook and snow started lightly falling,” he said.
Within 15 seconds the avalanche came down in full force, narrowly missing Lindfield Roberts. Black found shelter behind the ice curtain.
“I started acting very rationally and matter-of-factly, getting myself established on the ice. The second I heard it I knew what was coming and I remember thinking I had to hold on to different extents so I wouldn’t get super exhausted and not be able to hold on if something larger hit me,” Lindfield Roberts said. “I was rational, but at the same time I was terrified.
“I was getting slammed by a bunch of snow.”
Snow started filling up inside his jacket and snow pants, making him heavier and heavier as the snow kept trying to pull him with it.
After what seemed like forever, the avalanche stopped. Both Black and Lindfield Roberts were fine—shaken, but alive. However, before they could figure out their next move, the second smaller avalanche struck.
After making sure they were both all right they started making their descent, dashing from one sheltered spot to the next.
Back on the road, Ratson had alerted Parks Safety, keeping an eye on Lindfield Roberts and Black until help arrived.
When the two got to the bottom around 3 p.m., an official from Jasper’s visitor safety team was there to greet them.
“I was pretty rattled and I don’t remember his name, but he was awesome. He was so supportive. He made it clear that we had messed up as far as decision-making was concerned, but he was really empathetic,” Lindfield Roberts said. “It was really comforting to have him there right when we got down.”
Ratson and his group had already left the area, leaving a little note and a few cans of beer on Lindfield Roberts’ car.
“He recognized that we might be in a difficult situation and he called in help that we wouldn’t have been able to access as quickly,” Lindfield Roberts said. “That was really awesome of him.”
Following the incident, Ratson, who is not only a climber, but also an adventure photographer, posted a picture of the second avalanche to social media. Within a few days the picture gained more than 1,000 likes on Instagram and had been shared by Parks Canada’s official Parks Mountain Safety Facebook page.
“If no one had of seen it, it might be our own personal epic, but by Sunday when we got back into cell service we realized how much this had exploded,” Lindfield Roberts said. “It was very overwhelming for both of us, but I do think it’s important to share this experience as a reminder to other climbers.
“Avalanches do happen.”
Parks Canada confirmed the two avalanches, adding that avalanche hazard is the most significant risk to ice climbers in the Canadian Rockies and it is the responsibility of those recreating in the area to assess the risk.
“Climbers must therefore be informed, prepared, aware of their options, and respectful of the conditions at all times,” wrote Steve Young, a communications officer for Parks Canada.
Avalanche bulletins are available at Park Information Centres, by calling 1-800-667-1105, or by visiting www.avalanche.ca.
“We were very glad that both climbers walked away from what could have been a serious avalanche accident and are willing to discuss their experience to help others learn from and avoid finding themselves in a similar situations."
Kayla Byrne
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